Cordoba Spain

Day 6 Malaga Cordoba (20.4.2017)

We took a day tour to Cordoba using Daily Tours booked with the resort at EU48 per person (inclusive of entrance ticket). From 7.15 am to 6.00 pm. We visited the Roman Bridge on Guadalquivir River, The Great Mosque of Cordoba and the Juderia.

Mesmerising Roman Bridge to go to The Great Mosque of Cordoba

The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba is the most important monument of all the Western Islamic world, and one of the most amazing in the world. The evolution of the “Omeya” style in Spain is resumed in the history of the Mosque of Cordoba, as well as other styles such as the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque of the Christian architecture.

It seems as if the place that the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba occupies nowadays was dedicated, from ancient times, to the cult of different divinities. In this same place, and during the Visigoth occupation, another building was constructed, the “San Vicente” Basilic. On top of this basilic and after paying half of the site, the primitive Mosque was constructed. This basilic, of rectangular shape, was shared for a period of time between Moslems and Christians. After the Muslim enlargement, the Basilic became property of Abderraman I, who destroyed it to construct the first “Mosque Alhama” or main Mosque of the city. Nowadays, some of the constructive elements of the Visigoth building are integrated in the first part of Abderraman I.

A huge strong walls that had stand the times and tribulation

One of the entrance with typical Arabic metallic door panels

Tourists queuing up to enter the mezquita now turn catedral de Cordoba. Entrance fee is EU10 per person

The Great Mosque has two different areas: the courtyard or “arcade sahn“, where the “alminar” (minaret) is constructed (beneath the Renaissance tower) by Abd al-Rahman III, and the “haram” or praying hall. The interior space consists of a forest of columns and red and white arches giving a strong chromatic effect. The site is divided into 5 different areas, corresponding each one of them to the different expansions that have occurred on it.

The minerat now turned to bell tower. View from inner courtyard. Separate ticket if you want to enter.

The successor of Abderraman I, was his son Hixem I, who was in charge of constructing the first “Alminar” (Minaret: tower used for calling to prayer) of the Mosque of Cordoba with a rectangular floor plan hall. Hixem I was also in charge of building the women’s galleries for prayer and also the construction of the first ablution basin. These alterations completed what became, for the history of Muslim architecture, the first Mosque of this town. Later, owing to the increase of the faithful, and the ruler’s love for the grandiose, the Mosque will have numerous expansions and reforms until it reached its actual state.

The Naranjos Courtyard (the Orange Tree Courtyard) was used for public activities in the Islamic period, such as teaching or for justice purposes. The arches that go from the praying hall to the courtyard were opened. From the beginning it was conceived as a courtyard with a colonnade (the construction of the galleries was started under the power of Abderraman I, but it was under the rule of Hixem I that they were finished). Hixem I also built the Alminar or minaret and the ablutions room. In the 16th century a complete reform was done under the rule of the Bishop Martín Fernández de Angulo with the help of the architect Hernán Ruiz I , who also built, at the same time, what today are the cloisters. Under the orange trees there is a large aljibe (water tank) that provided water for the Muslim's purifications. In the 13th century palm trees were planted. Its from the 15th century when we know of the existence of the orange trees at this courtyard. In the 18th century olive and cypress trees were added.

Abderraman III built the Alminar (minaret: Tower to call for prayer), which still remains in the actual bell tower. In 1593 the Chapter of the Cathedral takes the initiative of getting the Tower remodelled and mended, since it had got deteriorated because of a storm. This work was made by the architect Hernán Ruiz II who partially demolished the previous Alminar (minaret) and finished the bell tower. The works on the tower continued in the 17th century, and Juan Sequero de Matilla built the Clock's tower. Towards the end of this century this last tower was reinforced for danger of falling. The Campanil (bell tower) was constructed by Gaspar de la Peña in 1664. Over the tower there is a sculpture of San Rafael (Saint Rafael), made by Bernabé Gómez del Río and Pedro de la Paz .

The Great Mosque has two different areas: the courtyard or “arcade sahn“, where the “alminar” (minaret) is constructed (beneath the Renaissance tower) by Abd al-Rahman III, and the “haram” or praying hall. The interior space consists of a forest of columns and red and white arches giving a strong chromatic effect. The site is divided into 5 different areas, corresponding each one of them to the different expansions that have occurred on it.

Abderraman I built, in 785, a colossal hall consisting of 11 longitudinal naves, going from North to South, and 110 columns, the capitals and fusts of which were re-used from old Roman and Visigoth materials. These elements stand out because they are placed at different heights, due to the way the hall was constructed. This first Mosque has an unorthodox orientation, facing south, like the Great Mosque of Damascus.

This codes are for the location of each column.

These vaults are constructed leaving large open spaces between them. This constructive solution was used many times over in latter mudéjar (Moslem) constructions, receiving the name of Caliphate vault ribs (ribs in the intrados of a vault). The maqsura (prayer space for the ruler) is lavishly decorated with carved marble adorned with Syrian type motives and elaborate mosaics, that execute intricate vegetal scroll forms, giving the space a special colour aesthetic similar to the Byzantine constructions. An elaborate octagonal convex dome rises above the maqsura and the mihrab or minaret, which has an octagonal floor plan.

The second expansion (10th century)

Abderraman III proclaimed himself Caliph in 929, making Cordoba the biggest and most important capital of all the Western Islamic kingdom. The only change he did to the Mosque Alhama was the construction of a new alminar (minaret) and the expansion of the courtyard. This minaret was the first one of the Western world. Also, the new ruler Abderraman III, ordered to reinforce the arches that communicate the prayer hall with the ablutions courtyard, which were deformed by the pressure of the naves. From the courtyard to the main entrance of the Palace, he installed a big horseshoe arch above the existing one and built a semi-circular vault between both of them. In this same century, being Alhakem II the Caliph, the culture, aesthetic and literary arts increased considerably. Also, the political and cultural contacts with the great capital of Byzantium were increased.

Alhakem II added 12 more naves, getting even nearer to the Guadalquivir river. All the materials used in this new expansion were made for that only purpose. Fusts of pink and blue marble alternate. At the qibla or back wall of this construction is where the minaret is located from where they called for prayer. This back wall, due to the pressures it had to stand, was built double, making it more solid and resistant. At this same wall is where the maqsura (the prayer space facing the minaret) is located, being the principal area of the compound. Since this space was quite dark, due to not having enough incoming light, more vaults were built with skylights that allowed the illumination of the room.

The third expansion (987)

The last and most important enlargement of the Mosque of Cordoba, was carried out under the rule of Almanzor, towards the end of the 10th century. The imminent end of the Caliphate kingdom is easily seen in the poor materials used at this part on the Mosque. Since it was impossible to continue constructing to the South, due to the location of the Guadalquivir river, Almanzor decided to build 8 more naves to the East.

The first expansion (821-852)

Abderraman II made the first expansion (round 822) of the Mosque of Cordoba, by making the prayer hall larger, adding 8 more arcs facing the south, decorating it with clear abbasí influences, as a consequence of the political contacts between the Eastern Caliphate and the arrival to the Peninsula of people coming from the West. Mohamed I gave the definite shape to the Saint Esteban Gate ( Puerta de San Esteban ). Its origin is not certain, though it seems clear its aesthetic appearance is due to the blend of Visigoth and Cordoba's Caliph Art. After Mohamed I, came two more rulers, Al-Mundir and Abd- Allah. The first ruler, Al-Mundir, built the treasure room, although its location is not known. The second ruler, Abd-Allah, built a secret corridor, called sabat , that was connected to the Caliph's Alcazar (Caliph's Palace) with the mihrab (minaret).

The original timber ceiling panels adorned with verses from AlQuranul Kareem

The Cathedral of Cordoba is astonishing not only for its beauty but also for its location. In the early 16th century, the Bishop of the Cathedral (Bishop Manrique ) got the permission from Carlos V (Charles V, King of Spain) to construct inside the Great Mosque. Both, the Bishop and the King, coincided in the need to respect the expansion made under the rule of Alhakem II .

So, in 1523, the construction of the Cathedral of Cordoba started under the direction of the Spanish architect Hernán Ruiz I . After many discussions, they finally decided to insert the new Cathedral in the very heart of the former Mosque, which meant tearing down the center of the Mosque, where Abderraman I and Almanzor had made their reforms. After the death of the architect, his son, grandson and Juan de Ochoa continued the work.

Whats left of Juderia.